Articles
To Russia, With Law
January 3, 2006
This summer I traveled to Russia at the invitation of the Bar Association of the Republic of Udmurtia, a large and important state in the Russian Federation. The lawyers in Udmurtia arranged for me to visit them and observe their legal system. The trip was an incredible adventure.
The invitation originated from my participation and involvement with the International Affairs Council (IAC) in Raleigh. Over the past three years, I have held seminars at our law firm for court officials visiting from other countries including Afghanistan, Ukraine and the Russian Federation.
These meetings allow an exchange of ideas and dialogues regarding diverse legal systems. The transitions to democracy, business ownership and free enterprise require brave lawyers and judges. Their legal systems are trying to evolve to handle new challenges brought on by those concepts.
Even with over 200 years of experience in the U.S., we have countless frustrations with our legal system. So you can imagine the daunting task of establishing and maintaining the rule of law in newly democratic societies. I have developed a great respect for my colleagues in other countries and enjoy discussing and sharing ideas.
During one of these sessions, I met a Russian lawyer who was visiting the U.S. named Oleg Yuskin. Speaking with the assistance of IAC translators, Oleg suggested that I visit his country. Such an incredible opportunity seemed so far out of reach that I was concerned it would fade when Oleg and I parted. I told him I had been interested in visiting Russia for many years.
My father and my uncle were veterans and I was born and raised in military towns. I have always had a strong interest in the history of war and weaponry. As a natural consequence, I developed a great respect for the military of Russia and for the resolve and innovation of the Russian people.
Napoleon and Hitler found them indomitable. But my respect also resulted from an experience I had as a boy. In the early '80s, as the Cold War began to thaw, sailors from a Russian nuclear submarine were allowed to visit Busch Gardens amusement park. I had the fortune of being there and met and went on rides with the soldiers. It was amazing to see the kindness and laughter of these young men who were supposed to be our enemies.
Maria Adoskina, a good friend of mine who works for the IAC, advised me that Oleg had e- mailed her in Russian. She translated an invitation for me to visit Moscow and the Republic of Udmurtia. The invitation was from Oleg on behalf of the Bar Association of the Republic of Udmurtia.
Oleg and his colleagues were very interested in my visiting them and in fact would pay for most of my expenses! More e-mails clarified that the agenda included several meetings with important officials in Moscow and Udmurtia. I would also visit several places of legal, historic and military significance.
By the time the agenda was finalized I had only a few weeks to prepare for my 12-day trip. I rushed to get my Russian visa and to prepare my family and law practice for my absence.
I felt obliged to make the most of this opportunity and to be a good representative of my profession and my home state of North Carolina. I obtained letters conveying official greetings from several local officials and began a crash course in the Russian language.
During my days in Moscow, I met several lawyers and the executive director of the entire Russian Lawyer's Guild (the equivalent of the American Bar Association). I also visited the Moscow office of the World Affairs Council. My colleagues in Russia provided great entertainment. They showed me the Kremlin, Red Square, and many other places.
Oleg knew that I was quite interested in Russian war history and he had made arrangements for me to see many monuments and the World War II museum. "The Great Patriotic War" as it is called remains both a medal and a scar for the Russian people.
Over 17 million Russian civilians died in a war that would also claim millions of their soldiers. During my trip, I met many Russians who lost loved ones during the war. The sacrifice, resolve and experiences of the Russian people during World War II are ever-apparent parts of their society.
Standing at the gothic Russian monument to victory over Germany, I stared at the rest of Moscow. Had Russia fallen to Germany, what would have befallen the world? I felt transported back in time to 1945 and was overwhelmed with deep and powerful feelings of appreciation for the men and families lost.
Standing there, I thanked them.
Throughout the trip I was drawn to the plight of the Russian people in World War II and continued asking and learning about it. Many Russians said that I was not what they expected in an American. They did not think Americans had any respect or knowledge of Russian culture or Russia's involvement in the war.
Especially in Russia, Americans have earned a reputation for their obliviousness to other cultures and languages. It seemed to genuinely impress them that I recognized and revered their war monuments, military history and their great heroes.
They smiled and looked shocked when I spoke in Russian. English was rarely encountered and I found that my time studying and learning for the trip was well spent.
I can't stress enough how many doors seemed to open when I introduced myself and spoke in Russian. They were all very patient when they saw my efforts and seemed to enjoy the novelty of a North Carolinian speaking their language.
I began being less dependent on my translator and found I could work my way through conversations in Russian with occasional references to my English-Russian dictionary.
I even switched my wedding ring to my right hand, as is the Russian tradition. What originally started out as a business trip seemed to take on greater significance, both to me and to my hosts. The officials there treated me with the importance of a diplomat and I felt I was representing my country and its legal profession.
After a few days in Moscow, Oleg and I flew from Moscow to Izhevsk. Izhevsk is the capital of the Republic of Udmurtia, a state of the Russian Federation. Izhevsk is known for its steel and manufacturing industry, including the Kalashnikov gun factory. It has many skilled laborers and an incredible history.
My itinerary there had me meeting prosecutors, attorneys and military judges. I also met with high-ranking law enforcement, military and administrative officials including the mayor of Izhevsk, the vice president of the Republic of Udmurtia and some of the Republic's Supreme Court judges.
I witnessed bar examinations, court hearings and even a trial. I learned a great deal about the Russian legal system and its government while making many friends in the process. Each of the officials and businessmen I met expressed hopes for a strong relationship with America.
It was obvious that there are many opportunities for exchanges between our legal systems, people and businesses.
Oleg's village, Bodya-Yakshir, is just outside of Izhevsk. It was rustic and beautiful. I looked forward to returning to the village after our busy daily trips into Izhevsk.
The town was made of friendly, hardworking and genuine people. Most of them had never met an American. But the village soon seemed very familiar and Norman Rockwell would have found much inspiration. I visited the local schools, police department and the church of Oleg's family.
A lot of folks were quite curious of me. Having an American in their village was an unusual and novel experience. After they realized I spoke and understood a bit of Russian they really opened up with me.
Everyone was very kind and hospitable and I was treated almost like a celebrity. The regional newspaper interviewed me and published my picture with an article that spoke kindly of me and explained the purpose of my trip.
The nightlife in the village was exciting. I learned to play Russian Billiards and adopted some contemporary Russian slang. I was surrounded by new friends everywhere I went.
The best memories I have are those of staying with Oleg and his family in their home. His home had great character. He had built much of it himself. The purest water flowed through its pipes from an aquifer deep under the mountain.
He had a meticulously maintained garden. Unfortunately, it was a labor of love that lasted only during the midsummer.
Oleg had expertly crafted a Russian bath steam room using birch trees. He and I chopped birch logs for fueling the bath's furnace. He'd fill a part of the furnace with water to provide a tempest of steam.
In Russia, men hit themselves with birch boughs while steaming to increase circulation. In winter, they run from their saunas and jump into the deep snow and then repeat the ritual. After the baths we'd relax, joke and eat. I enjoyed the great meals at Oleg's house and I appreciated the time his family and friends spent teaching me more of their language and traditions.
Just before I left, I asked Oleg and his wife to allow me to prepare an "American" meal. We invited some of Oleg's friends and relatives. The kitchen was filled with jokes and onlookers as I pondered and converted measuring amounts and oven temperature.
Finally, about 10 of us crowded around the table. I proudly introduced them for the first time to sweet iced tea and some Southern-style chicken enchiladas I had improvised from Russian ingredients.
As we toasted one another, laughed and shared stories, I realized that I wasn't that far from home after all.
